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Mimi Sheraton describes the bialy as "a tenderly crusty roll, characterized by an indented center well that is ringed by a softer, higher rim, all generously flecked with toasted onions and, at its most authentic, with a showering of poppy seeds." It has, she adds with a certain reverence, "an affinity for sweet butter and fluffy cream cheese."
Kossar's is a bright, no-frills bakery with a small, makeshift sales counter. In the morning and late afternoon, the air is veiled in flour and heady with scents of yeast, onions and hot bread. Silent bakers in white T-shirts work with assurance, shaping, pressing and stretching small balls of soft, cuddly dough to form the well. Then they smear on ground fresh onions before placing into the brick oven for baking.
