The New York First Company - Impeccable Gifts and Unique Wonders

In his native Switzerland, Andre Jaccard earned the title of "master," the highest award for excellence in foodservice. Before coming to America he owned three meat processing plants where he designed and built some of the most innovative equipment for the culinary industry.

We meet for dinner at his favorite restaurant. He suggests we try the locally-raised venison steak, an inspired choice although usually gamey and tough.

Over the years there have been many ways to tenderize tough cuts of meat. In a pinch, chefs have used anything from heavy saucepans to wine bottles to break up tendons and muscles. But the easiest and best device is the lightweight, hand-held mechanical tenderizer invented by Mr. Jaccard and manufactured at his factory in upstate, New York.

There is hardly a restaurant kitchen that does not use the tool, known by most as simply, the Jaccard. Just press the 48 razor-sharp stainless-steel blades into the meat multiple times to loosten it and break the connective tissue that makes meat tough. The fine incisions create tiny heat channels, reducing cooking time and letting marinade penetrate deeper. Light pressure pushes the three rows of blades downward; they then retract to a safe position.

Our steaks arrive. They cut like butter. They chew like filet mignon. They are juicy and flavorful. "The venison," says my companion proudly, "it has been Jaccardized!"